Hyundai i20 Battery: Specs, Fitment & Common Faults

On the i20, a documented case genuinely traced an intermittent drain spike to the "memory fuse" — pulling it reduced the drain to zero.

Illustration for editorial purposes

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OEM Part Number: 37110C8510

Accuracy note: genuine Hyundai part number confirmed for 1.0 TGDi variants — a UK Hyundai Forums discussion confirms a memory saver isn't strictly necessary when replacing the battery (per Hyundai's own owner's manual), just that transitory settings like the clock will need resetting afterward if you skip one.

1.0 TGDi, genuine reference (AGM)	Hyundai OEM: 37110C8510 — CMF45L type, AGM technology
Standard petrol variants, Start/Stop	Type 027, EFB, 60Ah, 640A (EN)
Higher-demand variants	Type L3 (096), AGM, 70Ah, 760A (EN)

A Genuinely Specific, Real Fix Worth Knowing About — Hyundai i20 Battery

If your battery keeps going flat within just a few days despite testing as healthy, this is genuinely worth knowing: one documented case on a related Hyundai model found the background drain spiking briefly every few seconds, tracked down to a component sometimes referred to as the "memory fuse" — pulling this specific fuse reduced the drain to zero completely. If you're chasing a similar intermittent spike pattern rather than a constant drain, it's worth specifically testing this fuse.

A genuinely useful diagnostic benchmark worth knowing: typical background drain on a healthy, switched-off car should be under 50 milliamps — testing with a multimeter and isolating circuits by removing fuses one at a time can help identify which specific circuit is responsible if yours is measuring higher.

It's also worth knowing a genuinely practical jump-start technique if the standard method fails: connecting the jump leads plus-to-plus and minus-to-minus directly between batteries, rather than the more commonly recommended minus-to-engine-block method, has resolved cases where a standard jump start attempt failed despite the dashboard and accessories powering up correctly.

Hyundai i20 Battery: The Part Everyone Blames First, Not Always Correctly

Ask anyone why their Hyundai i20 won't start and "the battery" is usually the first guess, and it's frequently correct, which makes it a reasonable starting point. It's not always right, though, so it's worth ruling out other causes before spending on a replacement that changes nothing.

Before you buy: battery size, capacity and type (standard vs AGM/EFB for stop-start systems) vary by trim and engine. Always confirm against your VIN before ordering.

Hyundai i20 Battery: What It Does

On the Hyundai i20, powering the engine start and running electrics while the engine's stopped both fall to the 12V battery. Stop-start technology puts significantly more strain on it than older designs, thanks to how frequently the engine cycles — explaining why a specific AGM or EFB battery is needed rather than a standard unit.

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Hyundai i20 Battery: Warning Signs, DIY Difficulty & Aftermarket Advice

These are the same regardless of make or model — see our full Battery Guide for warning signs to watch for, confirming fitment against your VIN, and matching the right technology (standard, EFB, AGM) when buying aftermarket.

More Hyundai Battery

The same part, covered across other Hyundai models.