Renault Zoe Battery: Specs, Fitment & Common Faults

A genuinely important distinction: the Zoe has two separate batteries — a flat 12V auxiliary is the real cause of most "won't start" complaints, not the main traction battery.

Illustration for editorial purposes

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OEM Part Number: 402061200R

Genuinely important to know: this covers the small 12V auxiliary battery only, genuinely separate from the large lithium drive battery that powers the car — don't confuse the two when sourcing a replacement.

12V auxiliary battery, genuine reference (shared with Captur, Clio Mk4)	Renault OEM: 402061200R — sold as a pair
Standard fitment	Type 027, 60Ah, 242mm x 175mm x 190mm
Important	The 12V battery powers standard electrics only — it isn't part of the traction/drive system and doesn't affect the car's range.

A Genuinely Important Distinction Worth Knowing About the Zoe's Two Batteries — Renault Zoe Battery

It's worth understanding the Zoe genuinely has two separate battery systems: the large high-voltage traction battery that powers the electric motor, and a completely separate, conventional 12V auxiliary battery — much like the battery in a petrol or diesel car — that powers the lights, infotainment, central locking, and other standard electrics. A flat 12V battery is a genuine, real possibility on a Zoe even with the main traction battery fully charged, and it's this smaller 12V battery, not the main drive battery, that's responsible for most "won't start" or draining complaints unrelated to range or charging.

A genuinely simple, free trick worth trying if the 12V battery keeps draining: some owners report a persistent drain stopping entirely after specifically deadlocking the car — pressing the lock button twice on the key fob rather than just once. It's also worth checking the glovebox door for warping, since a door that's shifted slightly out of alignment with its switch can leave a light triggered even when it looks closed, silently draining the 12V battery over several days.

If the 12V battery has gone completely flat, it's worth knowing this is treated much like on any conventional car — jump-starting from the 12V terminals (never the high-voltage system) and then having the battery and charging system properly tested is the standard approach, rather than assuming anything is wrong with the main traction battery.

Renault Zoe Battery: The Part Everyone Blames First, Not Always Correctly

When a Renault Zoe won't start, the battery is the first suspect more often than anything else, and it's right often enough that checking it first is a reasonable move. It isn't always the actual cause though, which is worth knowing before paying for a replacement that solves nothing.

Before you buy: battery size, capacity and type (standard vs AGM/EFB for stop-start systems) vary by trim and engine. Always confirm against your VIN before ordering.

Renault Zoe Battery: What It Does

Starting the engine and running electrical systems whenever the engine isn't turning — that's the Renault Zoe's 12V battery job. If it has stop-start, it works much harder than older designs, since the engine cuts out and restarts constantly, which is exactly why it needs a specific AGM or EFB battery rather than a standard one.

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Renault Zoe Battery: Warning Signs, DIY Difficulty & Aftermarket Advice

These are the same regardless of make or model — see our full Battery Guide for warning signs to watch for, confirming fitment against your VIN, and matching the right technology (standard, EFB, AGM) when buying aftermarket.

More Renault Battery

The same part, covered across other Renault models.